Marie-Hélène (MH) and I recently returned from Italy.
Last year we visited Lake Como, Milan and Venice, so this year it was Rome and then various resorts along the Amalfi Coast.
MH knew the area quite well, as she had visited frequently, but for me it was the first time apart from a rushed day trip from Naples several years back.
Rome
We first flew to Rome, just over 2 hours from Heathrow. We were greeted by a bright sunny day, and this continued over the next 8 days, with one cloudy morning as the exception. We stayed at The Inn on the Spanish Steps, brilliantly located. I spent quite a bit of time in Rome in my student days, so way back in time, but I can still get lost and end up in roughly the right place. It was so busy, with lots of people from all corners of the world. This year is even busier than normal with the Catholic Jubilee celebration – once every 25 years.
Rome is one of my favourite places in Europe. I just love the style, the living history, and the rather happy chaos with a lot of smiles. Wonderful. We did so much in 3 days, mainly just walking and discovering.
Of course, we visited a few of our most popular hotels, within a short stroll of the Spanish Steps. We went up and strolled around the elevated gardens. We walked to the Trastevere district, about 30 minutes and no wrong turnings, crossing over the Tiber River. I knew this area from way back; it used to be a bit rundown but affordable in my student days. Now it has become trendy, bohemian chic – still has an edge to it, but the washing line clothes now have designer labels. So many restaurants and bars, music and laughter with a good mix of locals and visitors.
Then we walked back through the St Angelo district. An observation – Rome, and Italy generally, has doubled its police force in the last few years. They are everywhere. I find this reassuring rather than intimidating. And they are packing some serious muscle!
The next day MH went to mass in St Peter’s. She is Catholic; I am not, but I can still appreciate the affection and real sense of occasion. And it was in the presence of the new Pope. After that it was more strolling, mainly along the Tiber River, with me taking advantage of the numerous cafés.
Our last day morning was spent visiting the Vatican Museum, the Basilica and the Sistine Chapel. We had the foresight to book a guide and tickets in advance – the queues otherwise were huge. Really good experience; we saw so much in a short time. Just from an artistic point of view, incredible.
Then more side street strolling, including the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain – the lines were 4 deep, so actually getting close to the spring was nigh impossible – and the Borghese Gardens.
I so enjoyed Rome. It was super busy and, yes, expensive, but that is Italy generally. Taxis especially were very pricey.
Amalfi Coast – Amalfi, Ravello & Positano
We travelled by train from Rome to Salerno, just over 2 hours. High-speed, comfortable train; it seemed to be averaging 200 km per hour. It was then a 5-minute walk to the ferry, followed by an immediate ferry to Amalfi, which took about 40 minutes. It was the first time for me to really appreciate the truly spectacular coastline.
Amalfi is popular and seems to have the highest rates and occupancy I have seen anywhere in Europe. Prices go up year on year, but the people still keep coming. Yes, it is touristy but still in a rather fun, elegant way.
We stayed at Anantara Convento. As the name implies, a converted convent. Wonderful in every way – views, service, facilities and easy walking access from town – just as long as you are comfortable with lots of steps and heights. If you have a choice, the town is best visited after 5 pm when many of the day trippers/cruise passengers have left. Amazing choice of good restaurants.
We visited Ravello for the afternoon. It is only a 20-minute drive in and up, but you need to anticipate that you might not get on the first bus – they operate every 30 minutes. Or you can take a taxi – talking to others in the line helps to share the cost and saves time.
I rather liked Ravello, and if I came back to this world as a cat, it would be one of my chosen places. There are so many cats, and they are well looked after – almost by law.
It also seemed to be a venue of choice for weddings – an incredible backdrop for pictures. I was pleased I visited.
We also had a morning visit to Positano, 25 minutes by ferry from Amalfi. I had heard people raving about Positano as being THE place to be. It was a bit lost on me, and it looked like a busier Amalfi with even higher prices. Same things, 15% more. Again, good to see, even if only to make comparisons.
Sorrento and Capri
As there was a ferry strike, we travelled along the coast from Amalfi to Sorrento by taxi. It usually takes about 90 minutes, but we made numerous stops, seeing some super hotels and small villages. This coastline is dramatic at every twist and turn, and I was rather pleased to have seen it from the sea and the land.
I totally enjoyed Sorrento; it is like Amalfi but maybe a level down in pricing. The town is lively, with atmospheric small streets full of tempting bar and restaurant options. We stayed at the Bel Air Hotel, which I liked a lot, and particularly the bedroom view out to the Vesuvius volcanic mountain, Pompeii and Naples on the horizon.
We made a day trip to Capri. It only takes 20 minutes by ferry. My first impression of Capri was not good – I have mentioned the crowds of people several times, but this took it to another level. Maybe one of the worst examples of over-tourism I have encountered. Long lines everywhere, causing confusion.
We eventually managed to take the 5-minute funicular lift from the port to the more central main town. Still mega busy, but as we walked south it became much less crowded. Suddenly it was all rather attractive and top quality. As the bird flies (not sure they have crows in Capri), it would only take about 7 minutes to fly across the island, but we humans have to go up and down, so it takes about 30 minutes, including the lift. But very different worlds – reflected in the prices.
We had time to take a boat trip around Capri, just over an hour and enjoyable. Dramatic little grotto caves around the coast; we could not visit the famous Blue Grotto as the sea was too choppy, but we did see the green and white versions.
We returned from Naples, just over an hour’s road transfer from Sorrento to the airport. Our BA flight was delayed by about 3 hours, but the captain came to explain the reasons (burst tyre of incoming plane into Heathrow and then knock-on issues), and he did it with humour and humility – rather nicely done. He explained that if the delay was more than 3 hours, we would get compensation, but he thought he could get us back a bit quicker. He succeeded by 15 minutes!
I totally enjoyed Italy. I think it is an amazing country with so much to offer. You do need to be prepared for crowds, high prices, lots of steps, and, if you go to the Amalfi Coast, heights.
DK – Chic Locations
Oct 2025
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