David & Marie-Helene (MH) revisited Vietnam in June 2024

The last time either one of us was here was 4 years ago. Time to see what was had changed or what is new.

In fact, this trip started in Thailand. I flew into Phuket and then straight up to Khao Lak to attended the annual Thailand Travel Mart (TTM) show for 5 days, splitting my time between The Sarojin and Devasom hotels – two of our most popular in the region. I was reminded by The Sarojin that I have stayed or visited over 20 times! It is obviuously an area that I enjoy!

MH flew into Bangkok and then transferred straight to Hua Hin, 3 hours by road, where she stayed at the world acclaimed spa  Chiva Som. She had stayed several times before but this time she was especially impressed with the newly renovated rooms, the highly personalised attention and, of course, the treatments, which are always innovative. Only criticism was whilst 5 nights was enjoyable, 10 nights would have been even better! Next time.

We met up in Saigon, MH flying from Bangkok on Vietnam Airlines, while I came straight from Phuket on Vietjet – both flights about 90 minutes.

Saigon is officially known as Ho Chi Minh City (HCM City) particularly in Government circles or by those from the north, whilst those born or connected with the south still tend to use the old name of Saigon. It is the commercial powerhouse of the country. A combination of the traditional, French Colonial and modern high rise. Fast expanding up and out. Also one of the most exciting cities in the region. Just crossing the road can be an adventure, whilst the oncoming charge of mopeds and scooters try to avoid you – usually successfully.

A new experience for us both was a morning tour by Vespa (as pillion passengers of course) starting with a bird café. The owners bring their birds in their cages, which seem to speak and chirp enthusiastically. Then it was to the flower market, China Town, the new residential district 2, the famous old Post Office, Notre Dam Cathedral (still under renovation, 7 years now) and the Thich Quang Duc monument to the Buddhist monk, who set himself alight as protest to then then Government (1963) desire to change the south from Buddhism to Catholic.

Part of the tour was travelling down small alleys on a Vespa, barely enough space for one person and in many places being the only  “westerners”. We also tried the Vespa night tour. I have done it before when it was more café music focused. This one fewer places/more food. I enjoyed it less, but still good experience.

Saigon is a city of contrasts. You still have lively street markets, temples and churches, dense traditional habitation and then luxurious condominiums, wide boulevards and numerous parks, shophouses and then ultra luxurious shopping malls.

It is proud of its past but is very much looking towards the future. Maybe because of the independence war, especially in 1960/70’s and the loss of population and destruction of much of the arable land, it has an old population and also one of the very youngest. Plus it has imported wealth, particularly from those who left the country with nothing but now returned with the resources to make a difference.

After Saigon, it was a 3 hour drive east to reach the quiet resort of Azerai on Ke Ga Bay. Total chill out, low rise luxury – a perfect contrast to Saigon.

Popular with ex-pats and Saigon Hi -So, especially the younger ones, who find it a good place for social media selfies! After one night, we were off to Phan Thiet, with its busy market, the popular beach resort of Mui Ne, known for kite surfing. We eventually ended a long busy day, with several hotel inspections en route, at Anam resort Cam Ranh.

Cam Ranh has developed in the last 5 years from a quiet relaxing alternative to neighbouring and larger Nha Trang, to a resort in its own right with numerous new hotels – some huge 800 rooms plus –  neon lit and appealing very much to the domestic/regional market.

Anam was different. Low-rise, nice combination of Indochine and French design influences, with just over 200 rooms/villas, but spread out over extensive gardens leading down to superb beach. Very appealing. Super multi generational facilities.

When I first visited the Nha Trang area it was dominated by Russian travellers. They are still the most noticeable “Europeans“, even though a good number might live in the Vladivostok in the extreme East of Russia, just above the border with China. Now it is much more international, with “Australian“ frequently heard. Personally, I would prefer to actually stay in Cam Ranh,  of course avoiding the mega hotels. Nha Trang city has improved with lots of shopping and dining options with attractive beach front corniche.

After a couple of nights relaxation at Anam, including essential in-depth product research of the beach, sea and spa, it was time to continue driving north up the coast. Just north of Danang, you have the ferry points to the “offshore “ resorts – they appear to be offshore and usually reached by 20 minute speedboat, but they can also be reached by driving around the peninsula, just that it takes about 3 hours.

Overnight was at L’Ayla nature focused resort, located on an attractive beach with forest backdrop, plus a few monkeys. Next morning it was a 10 minutes speedboat transfer around the cove to visit Six Senses Resort, higher price level but that could also be part of the attraction. 

Than it was back to the mainland to continue driving north. The roads are good, the scenery varied with some high mountains on the left and rural fields and salt flats on the other, plus some really attractive looking beaches.

Took just over 5 hours (visited Amanoi on the way) to reach Bai San Ho, where our next hotel, Zannier, was  located. Another chill out luxurious all villa resort, most with private pool. Incredible views from numerous vantage points and superb soft sand cove beach.

This area, part of Phu Yen Province – is one the least visited, less populated and industrialised part of Vietnam which rather adds to the attraction. Fishing and farming are still the main occupations – with shrimp farming particularly noticeable, “field after field” up to and beyond the horizon. Wonderful.

The next morning we woke for some more product research into the sea quality. Both reported it to be rather good, calm and ever so clear.

Second week activities, just as busy, which we will detail in our next summary.